Gasoline Leak!

Don’t you just hate it when your tractor dies in the middle of a field of dry grass, and when you go to investigate, gasoline is gushing over the hot engine? I know I do!

Gas was pouring out of the air cleaner side of the carburetor and out of the the fitting of the bottom of the gas tank as well. Not good!

I took off the gas cap to see what the deal was, and there an enormous “whoosh” and the cap shot up ten feet into the air.

After finding the cap again, I verified that it said “Vented” on it. You couldn’t prove it by me. What the heck?

The gas continued to leak out the carburetor after the pressure was relieved, but banging on the carburetor with a wrench recalled it to its duty. The pressure must have jammed the carburetor floats temporarily.

Here’s a picture of my tractor during an outbreak of teenagers a while back:

Ford 600 tractor with teenagers

Now I’m down to an annoying slow leak at the outlet of the gas tank, of maybe a drop a minute. The pressure must have distorted the O-ring. This is not an easy part to get at. I may have to take the top cowling off. Grumble, grumble.

So what the heck happened? I thought all vented gas caps were the same — basically a gas cap with a hole in it to keep the tank from building up any pressure (or vacuum). But unless the cap I had was simply defective, this is clearly not the case.

The cap wasn’t specifically recommended for a Ford 600-series tractor, it’s just that I noticed that a cap for my 1972 Ford F100 pickup also fit my tractor. I needed a new gas cap because I lost mine and Ford/New Holland no longer carries them. On the theory that all unvented gas caps were the same, I got the vented version of the one for my pickup. This clearly was a mistake.

The smart thing to do would have been to go to Yesterday’s Tractors and order the right gas cap. They’ve got everything, including forums with good advice. Check ’em out. I ordered the right gas cap and that should be that.

So the take-away here is that gas caps contain mysteries that are beyond mortal ken. Buy an exact replacement.

[Later:] I thought I had the gas tank fixed, but it turned out it still had a slow leak. After considerable fiddling around, it turned out to be a leak in the tank itself, rather than at the valve. I have ordered a new gas tank.

[Later still:] This is a serious problem! I’ve discovered several things:

  • Cheap Chinese gas caps sometimes contain parts that dissolve in gasoline! I am not making this up. Buy a name-brand cap, like Stant.
  • Even with the recommended Stant gas cap, the tank would over-pressurize and leak. The problem seems to be that putting a gas tank directly above the engine isn’t the smartest thing in the world, and the hot engine pressurizes the tank beyond what the gas cap’s vent can deal with. In the end, I used the trick I read about on Yesterday’s Tractors: there’s a spring-loaded plastic button on the inside of the gas cap in the center. That’s the vent. Drill a teeny-tiny hole in it. This gives you a non-pressurized gas tank.

Earlier tractors like the Ford N series had non-pressurized tanks, with a dome built into the top of the tank with a pinhole in the top and bottom to vent off gases. I’d rather have a proper spring-loaded vent (since it reduces emissions and minimizes the amount of gas that dribbles out if the tractor turns over), but I have to select something that works over something that doesn’t.

The safety issue, by the way, is why old tractors have metal gas lines rather than rubber ones. Because they use gravity feed rather than a fuel pump, turning off the ignition does nothing to stop the flow of gasoline. If you ever feel moved to use a rubber fuel line, you need to put a fuel shutoff solenoid between the tank and the rubber, and have it turn on and off with the ignition. Such shutoffs are available.

P.S. Check out my other tractor pages.

Fun With Technical Writing

Before I landed my current job working remotely for Citrix Systems, I was a free-lance technical writer for about ten years, and I had a page designed to draw in business. Yesterday, I finally got around to ripping all the irrelevant stuff out, and what remains are a few articles about my life as a technical writer and technical writing in general. Check it out!

Technical writing is a very strange line of work. It centers around the intersection between product development and publishing, two very different lines of work.

Then there’s the fundamental problem of writing: it’s hard. It’s almost impossible to get started, and it’s easy to stop. Once you’re in the zone, you don’t want to stop until you’re done. It’s “lock yourself in your office and turn off the phone” work. Different writers have different ways of coping with the problem, which, taken as a whole, tend to explain why people think we’re weird.

I like the “total immersion” method of technical writing: learn everything I can about the topic so that when I start writing, I can plow through to the end without stopping. But that’s just one of many approaches.

One thing that surprises people is that there really isn’t any difference between “technical writing” and “nonfiction writing” in terms of how the actual writing step works. Technical writing just means that you’re writing how-to stuff about a product (mostly user’s guides and reference manuals) and you’re probably being paid by the product’s manufacturer. In othe words, a book about bass fishing is technical writing if its title is “Catching Bass with the Gizmo Complete Bass Fishing System,” but it’s not if the title is, “Backwoods Bass-Fishing Secrets.” This means that general nonfiction writing skills all transfer to technical writing and vice versa.

My technical writing site is HighTechWriting.com.

Are Expensive Hatcheries the Cheapest?

Suppose you bought 100 pullets from the lowest-price hatchery you could find, and 100 pullets from an expensive hatchery. What do you think the results would be?

I don’t know if anyone has tried this recently, but I found this very experiment in an old British poultry magazine. The results went like this:

The box from the expensive hatchery had more chicks in it (something like 106), and they were all alive. The chicks were energetic and did very well during the brooder period. The order was for pullets, and what was delivered were pullets.

The box from the cheap hatchery had no extra chicks in it. Some of the chicks were dead. The chicks were did less well during the brooder period. Many of the pullets were really cockerels.

(I wish I hadn’t lost the reference to the article, because I’d like to quote it directly, but you get the idea.)

So what’s up with that? The explanation goes like this: Suppose you’re running a hatchery, but you’re not very good at it, and you get complaints about quality. You need more money to put the kids through college. You have two choices:

  • Clean up your act and produce a product that can compete with the best.
  • Lower your prices to attract cheapskates. Cheapskates ignore quality and buy solely on price.

On the other hand, suppose you run the best hatchery anywhere, but profits are disappointing and you need more money to put the kids through college. Your choices are:

  • Find more sources of efficiency so you can make enough money to live on without raising prices.
  • Raise prices.

The difference between the options at the two hatcheries will eventually mean that the crummy hatcheries are all cheap and the good ones are all expensive.

Take-way: never buy from the low-price leader. It’s not just that cheap chicks are more expensive in the long run, it’s that it’s so depressing to have them die on you. You should insure yourself against disappointment by buying quality chicks.

Actually, the best thing to do is to ask around and see where the most successful local poultry folks buy their baby chicks. If you’re raising show birds, ask the show-bird raisers, since the commercial guys won’t know, and vice versa.

I always buy from Privett Hatchery in Portales NM, since in my opinion they’re the best hatchery in the West. I’ve tried ’em all, and their commercial-quality layers are very good. I use Phinney Hatchery in Walla Walla as my backup hatchery. I’m less familiar with hatcheries in other parts of the country, but I know that there are good ones and bad ones. Probably most of the well-known ones are good ones: Murray McMurray Hatchery, Ideal Hatchery, Stromberg’s, Moyer’s, Belt.


I go into this topic (plus many more) in my book, Success With Baby Chicks. If you don’t have a copy, you should. I went through an enormous amount of source material and tried all sorts of different techniques before I wrote the book, all aimed at keeping your baby chicks happy and healthy, giving you that wonderful baby-chick experience that’s what attracts us to poultrykeeping in the first place. I can guarantee that it will be worth purchasing, even if you’re an experienced poultrykeeper. And that goes double for beginners, because there’s a lot to learn, if you don’t get good results with your first batch of chicks, the heartbreak of letting down the baby birds who are so dependent on you will likely leave you discouraged, and you might never try again.

Time to buy a truck?

I’m told that SUVs and trucks have lost a big fraction of their resale value because they get crummy gas mileage. So it’s a good time to buy.

Not me, though. I’ve had mine for years — a 1972 F100 pickup, that I bought ten years ago for $650. It has a 390 cubic inch V-8 and gets 10 MPG. Its low gas mileage has never been a problem, because we don’t use it for anything but hauling. And that’s the point. If you live in the country, you need a vehicle that can haul a lot of stuff — feed, hay, lumber, firewood — whatever. You can have an economy car, too (I do), but you need a hauler.

Admittedly, my truck needs a lot of TLC, or possibly a wrecking ball. It’s a buyer’s market out there, though, so if you look around, you can probably find a good deal on something nice, whether it’s a truck or an SUV.

Let’s assume that you’re like us — too cheap to buy a vehicle built in this century. The trick with old vehicles is to have a spare, but you must keep the spare running. For example, there are two drivers in our family, so the working minimum is three vehicles: Two to drive, one in the shop.

For a lot of people, it’s so inconvenient to leave a car in the shop for a few days that they never do — until it dies. A spare vehicle makes it a lot easier to get the other ones repaired. It’s not that they need to be repaired very often, it’s just a hassle when you live way out of town. Also, it’s helpful to have a spare so if something happens to your regular car — a flat tire, say — you can drive the other car if you’re in a hurry, and attend to the first one later.

If you insist on doing your own repairs, you can justify one more spare. But don’t accumulate dead cars with the idea that they count. By definition, a spare is a car that will run whenever you want it to — not one that runs in some vague, theoretical sense. Spouses should be given carte blanche to take their personal vehicles into the shop at will, even if you think you’re god’s gift to car repair and will get around to it any month now.

When Karen was looking around for a pickup, everyone said she should buy a Toyota, even people who were sitting inside Ford pickups at the time. (“His and hers” pickups are every couple’s dream, right?) She ended up with a 1996 Toyota T100 3/4 ton extended cab pickup and has been very happy with it. It gets about 18 MPG. The word on the street is that the Toyota’s have a very effective 4WD and are much less likely to get stuck on wet pastures than other rigs, and they seem to last forever. We were tired of towing my pickup out with the tractor.

I have a 1990 Isuzu Trooper SUV, which I like well enough. Its 4WD isn’t as good as the Toyota’s, and it’s only rated for a half-ton load, but it seats four in reasonable comfort and five in reasonable discomfort, and it’s been very reliable through 200,000 miles, though it needed a cylinder head replaced when it was about 15 years old. I’m not very familiar with the other SUVs on the market, but if you need to haul a bunch of stuff and maybe seat 4-5 people at the same time, an SUV is the only way to go.

We used to have a Ford Taurus station wagon, which we hauled feed in all the time, and it tended to eat shocks, tie rods, tires, and other parts. So I figure that hauling needs to be done in a vehicle designed for the task — one with a commercial chassis — a truck, SUV, or full-sized van.

iPod Touch: Best PDA for Farmers

Cell phones could have been invented for farmers, just to make it possible to get in touch with spouses who are in town on one errand and vector them off on another — for a hundred pounds of chick starter, say. I got my first cell phone after moving back to the country.

Eventually I’ll have an iPhone, but the first rule of rural cell-phones is, “Use the carrier with the strongest signal at your house.” For me, that’s Verizon. For the iPhone, I’d need AT&T, and their signal stinks out here.

But I digress. I was going to talk about the iPod Touch, which pretends to be an MP3 player but is really a PDA, portable Web browser, video player, and many other things.

With the new 2.0 software release, the iPod Touch has suddenly become a very capable machine. It connects easily to the corporate email of my day job at Citrix Systems, so I can check my mail wherever I am, if there’s a wireless signal. And there generally is, these days. And I’m delighted by OmniFocus, a fancy task manager for the iPod Touch and iPhone you can download for twenty bucks.

The iPod Touch uses any available wireless access point to figure out where you are (this works even if you can’t connect to the access point). This is integrated with Google Maps and OmniFocus. Google Maps can give you directions and do location-based searches from where you are. OmniFocus can give you to-do lists (like shopping lists, sorted nearest-first. Very handy.

The technology for this is based on a huge database of wireless access point locations, that were compiled by having people drive up and down every highway and every street in every town. Wireless access points broadcast their Ethernet addresses even when they have been secured in every other way, so every one of them acts as a beacon. If you can hear just one access point, you know where you are in general terms. With three, you can use triangulation to pinpoint your location. All of this is done automatically in the software.

The process is very accurate — so accurate that if I put an access point in my barn, it could probably pinpoint my location on the farm, so if I’m on the back forty, the back-forty to-do items would jump to the top of the list.

Now, if you’re in the country, the drivers haven’t bumped down your road, so your wireless access point isn’t in the database. But this has been taken care of, too. Skyhook Wireless (the people who are doing all the driving and maintaining the location database) has a page where you can submit locations of access points not on their list. I’ve submitted mine! It takes a variable amount of time for the results to show up. My iPod Touch still doesn’t know where it is when I’m home.

If you’re going to use an iPod Touch or iPhone while doing chores, like I do (I listen to audiobooks all the time — right now I’m listening to “The Civil War” by Shelby Foote), get a rubber cover and a screen protector for it so it will bounce instead of breaking, and so it doesn’t get exposed to too much dampness. I use a ShieldZone Top Skin and have been very happy with it.