Robert Plamondon has written three books, received over 30 U.S. patents, founded several businesses, is an expert on free-range chickens, and is a semi-struggling novelist. His publishing company, Norton Creek Press, is a treasure trove of the best poultry books of the last 100 years. In addition, he holds down a day job doing technical writing at Workspot.
How did people brood chicks before electricity? Lots of ways, and a few are still useful today.
Homesteading.news just posted an article about how to do January(!) brooding without electricity, using a heavily insulated brooder with bubble-wrap insulation to reflect the baby chicks’ body heat, allowing them to do well without supplemental heat.
Generally speaking, the body-heat-only technique has been around for 150 years or so, and has been used with several variations:
Using body heat alone in an insulated brooder from day 1.
Using supplemental heat for a while, but using an insulated brooder to remove supplemental heat early.
The second method is the most flexible, of course, since it can work even when the weather is too cold for the first method.
My preference, of course, is to go ahead and use electricity, because it’s convenient, reliable, and affordable unless you’re off the grid (which I’m not). My second choice would be to use supplemental heat for a while, using jugs of hot water, replacing them as needed. This is especially important for the first three days, when the chicks are still learning the ropes.
Yes, it’s been a year since I sent a newsletter out. It probably had something to do with having four part-time businesses and a full-time job! Citrix Systems and I have parted ways, so I’m back to just the four businesses again, which seems more plausible, doesn’t it?
January’s not so bad. No, seriously! (If you keep rolling your eyes like that, they might fall out.) The hatcheries send out their catalogs in January, which is always fun, with early-bird discounts to tempt you to place your orders early. (Hint: the discount is often for ordering early, even if you select a much later delivery date.)
And we’ll tend to look good for the next few months because egg production starts increasing as soon as the days start getting longer, in spite of the nasty weather.
If you sell eggs at the farmer’s market, chicks hatched in January will start laying sometime around Memorial Day, the traditional start of the season. If the thought of brooding January chicks appalls you, you should read the winter brooding tips in my book, Success With Baby Chicks. January brooding is perfectly practical, and I spend quite a bit of time in the book showing you how.
January To-Do List
Inspired by a similar list in Jull’s Successful Poultry Management, McGraw-Hill, 1943.
Take stock of your chickens, housing, and equipment. What do you have? What do you need for the coming season?
Clean up your brooder houses before you even order baby chicks.
Clean, repair, and install brooders. If you use heat lamps, inspect the sockets and the bulbs, since both tend to burn out over time
Purchase brooding equipment if necessary: brooders, feeders, waterers, etc.
Resolve to keep better records.
Look at last year’s records before you invest in this year’s project.
Continue using artificial lights on hens if you already are, but don’t bother starting them now if you aren’t. (Traditional usage is to use 14 hours of light, between September 1 and April 1.)
Deal with damp or dirty litter. If you heap up soggy or yucky litter, it will drain and start to compost, and it will be ready to spread out again in a few days.
Keep waterers from freezing. Chickens prefer warm drinking water in cold weather, and it takes longer to freeze.
Always give chickens as much feed as they want during the winter, when they need extra calories to stay warm.
It’s been an amazingly wet winter so far, even by Oregon standards, so we’re dealing with mud, with a touch of flood. This doesn’t bother the chickens very much, but it’s a nuisance. Even chickens can churn a pasture into mud when the ground is saturated, so we’ve moved their houses a few times already. In the dry months, we can leave them in place for months with no ill effect.
We’ve had a few days where our livestock watering system froze. It’s mostly just hundreds of feet of garden hose running simple float-valve waterers, and it tolerates freezing and thawing okay, but I hate carrying water in buckets.
The climate here is mild enough that it’s a nuisance only a few weeks per year, but I’m hoping to make a few of my more convenient and freeze-resistant plastic-bucket-based waterers so I can write them up by next time.
All of these are fine books (I publish books I believe in). If you’re like most readers of this newsletter, you’ll enjoy starting with Fresh-Air Poultry Houses and Success With Baby Chicks. These cover the basics of healthy, odor-free, high-quality chicken housing and zero-mortality chick brooding, respectively, and get good reviews.
I started Norton Creek Press in 2003 to bring the “lost secrets of the poultry masters” into print — techniques from the Golden Age of poultrykeeping, which ran from roughly 1900 to 1950. I’ve been adding an eclectic mix of non-poultry books as well. These include everything from my science fiction novel, One Survivor, to the true story of a Victorian lady’s trip up the Nile in the 1870s, A Thousand Miles up the Nile. See my complete list of titles.
In a previous post, I talked about my fatigue and my diagnosis of sleep apnea. I mentioned that I’ve been prescribed modafinil, a wakefulness promoter that’s not really a stimulant, because using the CPAP machine every night did not restore my energy right away.
I’ve been taking my modafinil faithfully, and it helps a lot, but not enough to wean me off pretty high-dose caffeine—not yet. I seem to be slowly gaining energy, so I might be able to stop using this stuff eventually. In the meantime, though, it’s very helpful.
2017 Update: This blog post was first published in 2015. I’ve added my 2017 updates here and there throughout the post.
The big news for 2017 is that I’ve recovered enough to stop taking modafinil every day! Woo-hoo! I used to take 400 mg every day: 200 mg when I got up, and 200 mg at 11 AM. I cut this down to 100 mg (half a pill) twice a day, then 100 mg once a day. Now I take 50 mg (a quarter of a pill) if I feel like I need it, averaging 50 mg once every week or two.
What Remedies Help with Fatigue and Brain Fog?
Never satisfied by half-measures, I investigated the possibility of other energizing compounds. (Not amphetamines, though. They’re fairly standard for post-apnea fatigue like mine, but … no.)
It turns out that pharmaceutical companies around the world have been working like crazy on this problem for decades, and there are a lot of things to try. Some are prescription drugs, but many are herbs, nutrients, or other compounds that are available over the counter. Many have been in use for 30-40 years already and have established track records (though sometimes mostly for other complaints than mine).
I’ve tried all the remedies listed below: D-ribose, adrafinil, rhodiola rosea, caffeine, extended-release caffeine, sulbutiamine, and L-theanine.
D-Ribose
My new favorite supplement is D-Ribose, which seems to give me a significant physical boost. Unlike most supplements in powder form, D-Ribose dissolves in water and tastes fine.
Ribose is part of the mitochondrial powerhouse cycle, which I will not even pretend to explain, but it certainly bumped up my physical activity level, in spite of not being a stimulant.
I’ve tried both the powder from Bulk Supplements and the chewable tablets from Now Foods. The powder is much ore affordable, and since (unlike most other supplements I mention) the powder is pleasant-tasting rather than disgusting, you might as well try the powder first.
Adrafinil is similar to modafinil, and in fact was developed by the same company. Adrafinil is now available over the counter, while Modafinil is a prescription drug that costs an arm and a leg (hundreds of dollars a month!). I’ve purchased 300 mg adrafinil capsules from Absorb Health, directly from their Web site.
A lot of people who can’t afford modafinil use the more affordable adrafinil instead. It’s less concentrated than modafinil (for me, 300 mg of adrafinil is equivalent to 100 mg of modafinil and it doesn’t last quite as long). If you buy adrafinil in capsule form, it costs about $1 per pill, and a standard dose of 2-4 pills per day works out to $60-$120 per month. Buying it in powder form cuts the price in half, or more.
2017 Update: I haven’t taken adrafinil for a long time. When I run out of modafinil, I’ll probably use adrafinil instead, since it’s cheaper and I don’t need the extra kick modafinil gives anymore.
Rhodiola Rosea
This is an herb that has, maybe, some stimulating properties in addition to aiding recovery. But if it’s stimulating, I can’t feel it. Rhodiola rosea is affordable and readily available at places like GNC. I use the Now Foods 500 mg Rhodiola rosea product, taking one on arising and one before lunch.
2017 update: I put rhodiola rosea into a rotation along with echinacea and ginseng. On a month where I take rhodiola rosea, I don’t feel any different than on the others.
Good Ol’ Caffeine
Caffeine pills restored a great deal of my functionality. It took me a while to realize that high doses of caffeine are essential to my energy and alertness. I don’t know about you, but it works for me.
For the last couple of years, I’ve taken a 200 mg immediate-acting caffeine tablet first thing in the morning, at 11 AM, and at 3 PM). Caffeine tables give a reliable increase in my energy level and alertness 20-30 minutes after I take them.
Some people point that this is a lot of caffeine, and it is! That’s 600 mg/day, but in fact I also drink coffee and caffeinated diet sodas, so my total intake is probably more like 800 mg/day. That’s twice as much daily intake as is usually recommended.
When traveling, I prefer the old standby, Vivarin, since its waxy coating lets me swallow a pill dry. At other times, I prefer inexpensive caffeine tables that I can wash down with water. Of the low-cost caffeine tablets, I’ve found the Prolab brand to be completely reliable. Others can be oddly variable in effect, even from pill to pill in the same bottle!
Bonus early-morning caffeine tip: Before bed, I set two wake-up alarms, half an hour apart. I keep caffeine pills and a bottle of water next to my bed. When the first alarm goes off, I take a caffeine pill and go back to sleep. When the second alarm goes off, I’m ready to get up. This gets me up far more reliably than expecting myself to find the energy to get up before I take caffeine.
Extended-Release Caffeine
The idea behind extended-release caffeine is to avoid that jangly caffeine jolt shortly after taking it. Instead, it’s supposed to give a smooth alertness. I liked the Met-Rx 200 mg capsules, which were very affordable. Sadly, they seem to have been discontinued. They claimed an eight-hour extended release. For me, they lasted 3-4 hours.
I’ve tried a couple of other brands, including Sundown Naturals sustained release caffeine, but they didn’t have any effect on me. Other people give this brand very high marks, though, so maybe it’ll work for you.
Sulbutiamine (Arcalion)
Sulbutiamine is a synthetic form of vitamin B1 that’s also helps keep you going. This is more exotic than Rhodiola rosea but is still available over the counter. I’ve purchased 200 mg sulbutiamine capsules from Amazon.com and from Absorb Health. I used to take four capsules per day. I tapered off after they seemed to lose their punch, and now only take sulbutiamine occasionally. I’ve started buying it in powder form, which is much cheaper.
2017 update: It’s been a long time since sulbutiamine had any obvious effect on me, and I no longer use it.
L-theanine
This is an amino acid found in green tea, and it counteracts the over-stimulation that you get from caffeine alone, so you get a calmer pick-me-up. I’ve used 200 mg L-theanine capsules from Now Foods. Frankly, I don’t notice much effect from this and stopped using it some time ago.
This is something of a nuisance, since you have to measure your doses, and many supplements taste awful, but it reduces the price by a lot: 50% for adrafinil and 80% for sulbutiamine. That’s a pretty good incentive.
I may write about this in more detail later, but basically you want an inexpensive but accurate electronic scale and probably a simple kit for filling your own capsules.
Sunrise Simulators
I use two different Lighten-Up sunrise simulators to ramp the lighting in my bedroom from pitch black to very bright over the course of half an hour. The idea is that your body wakes up more easily if you give it firm “it’s morning!” cues, and more comfortably if the light level rises slowly.
These devices are just programmable lamp dimmers that you use with the lamps of your choice. I have one on my headboard and one at the other end of the room. They work best with incandescent bulbs, but I think I have one of them using a dimmable LED lamp.
Bedtime
To help get to sleep, and for the general benefit they provide, I take 3 mg of melatonin and 600 mg of Valerian extract about 90 minutes before bedtime. These aren’t particularly powerful sleep aids, but all they’re supposed to be doing is to point my body in the right direction.
What’s the maximum number of hens I can keep per acre? And what’s the downside of exceeding this? Why do I get answers all the way from one to a thousand? And, for that matter, what are the best tips for keeping free-range chickens?
After all, it’s discouraging when your chickens turn their nice grass range into a sea of mud. Here’s how to avoid this.
Chickens are Hard on Grass
It’s discouraging when your chickens turn their nice grass range into a sea of mud.
By default, your chickens will destroy all the ground cover in the immediate vicinity of the chicken coop. They do this through a combination of eating the plants, scratching the ground cover with their claws, and covering everything with manure. This process is quite fast in the area around the house, especially in wet weather, when the ground is soft. Even a flock with just a few hens will denude the area right around the chicken coop. Further away, the process is slower.
As you add more chickens, the grass is destroyed even faster around the chicken coop, and for a greater distance as well. At really high densities, the only remaining grass, if any, will be far away. At this point, you’ve gone from free-range chicken farming to mud-yard chicken farming.
Chickens Produce Lots of Manure
At moderate stocking densities, the manure from free-range hens acts as fertilizer, helping the grass grow. But at high densities, it’s too much, killing the grass instead. So where is this threshold?
At a stocking density of 50 hens per acre, the hens will add 2.5 tons of manure per acre per year, equivalent to 106 pounds of nitrogen, 30 pounds of phosphorus, and 61 pounds of potassium. That’s about as much as most chicken yards can absorb unless you go to a lot of extra effort. Fifty hens per acre has been considered to be the free-range sweet spot for over 100 years.
Here in Oregon, the Experiment Station discovered long ago that chicken manure on range can build up the the points where plants won’t grow.
A light, porous soil has a greater capacity for fowls than a heavy soil or a damp soil. At the Oregon Station on clay soil it was found that the day droppings from 200 laying hens on an acre in four years made the soil too rich for the successful growth of cereal crops where cropping the ground was done every other year. The night droppings were put onto other land. If the soil contains too much manure for the crops it is safe to assume that it is not in the best condition for poultry. Sooner or later it is bound to show not only a failure of grain crops but failure of poultry crops.
Some people managed to sustain 200 hens per acre by plowing the range frequently and replanting, which buries the surface manure and also aerates the soil, which allows a lot of the nitrogen escape into the air, wasting it and thus lowering it below toxic levels in the soil. That seems like a lot of work to me!
James Dryden’s classic and still helpful 1916 book, Poultry Breeding and Management (republished by me under my Norton Creek Press label), he recommended 50 chickens per acre as the safe, sustainable level, and thought that maybe, just maybe, 100 chickens per acre can be sustained if the “night manure” under the perches is disposed of elsewhere, and several other special steps are taken. Which I interpret as, “stick to 50 hens per acre.”
The Long Term vs. the Short Term
One thing that confuses beginning farmers is that you can get away with high stocking densities for a year or two. Everything seems to be working fine. Then the wheels fall off. It takes a while for manure to build up to toxic levels, and the grass in the chicken yard may rally in the spring before dying off again.
But overstocking a chicken yard doesn’t just kill off the plant life: pathogens start building up as well. This happens slowly enough that it usually isn’t a problem for your first flock, whose immune systems build up to keep pace, but replacement flocks are hit hard when introduced to this environment.
When I did my survey of all the poultry books and magazines over a hundred-year period, one thing that stood out was that people who sang the praises of high stocking density—300, 400, even 1,000 hens per acre—had never been in business more than three years. I’ve heard far too many stories about people who used high stocking densities successfully for a couple of years, only to go broke and have to sell the farm after a series of flock-health disasters. So let’s all be careful out there.
Portable Housing
Because the chickens will inevitably denude the area around the chicken coop, the traditional solution is to use a portable coop and drag it to a new patch of grass once in a while. Depending on circumstances, the coop might be moved every day or it might be moved just a few times a year. If the chickens are confined to a smaller area, the coop needs to be moved more often.
Pasture pens, used mostly for broilers, are floorless chicken coops that serve as both a house and yard in one. These are typically moved to a new patch of grass every day. The broilers aren’t allowed to leave the pens because they can’t be trusted to come in out of the rain (the way hens can), and so it’s best to keep a roof over their heads at all times. We manage our broilers this way.
With hens, however, we use outdoor feeders, which are some distance from the chicken coops, and this encourages the hens to wander around quite a bit, spreading them out and requiring less-frequent moves of their hen houses, which we shift by 30 feet or so every couple of months.
With portable coops, the grass still takes a beating if the moon and stars don’t align, but because you can move the chickens away from the barren spots, it doesn’t matter much. The bare patches recover after a while. With fixed housing, the area next to the house typically never recovers.
Fixed Housing and Yards
If you have fixed housing and more than a few chickens, you’re probably not doing free range, but yarding. With yarding, you have a fenced chicken yard that inevitably becomes barren.
Several approaches are used to make yarding useful:
Double yards. The chickens are in one yard while you plow and replant the other yard. Usually the yard with the chickens becomes barren before the other yard is ready for them, but the plowing and replanting uses up some of the nutrients from the manure and destroys most of the parasites.
The henyard system. A thick layer of straw or other litter is spread over the entire yard, and more (a lot more) is added whenever the yard becomes muddy or nasty. Once a year, the litter is cleared out and spread on a garden or field. This prevents parasite buildup and mud. I describe this on my free range and yarding page.
Stoneyards. The yard is covered with a couple of layers of large round stones. The manure tends to wash down below the top layer of stones, separating it (and any parasites it contains) from the chickens.
Sun porches. The yard is really a deck elevated well above ground level and is given a wire floor, usually made from welded-wire fencing.
Best Soils for Free-Range Chickens
Chickens do better on some soils than others.
Milo Hastings had this to say about soil types in his delightful and practical 1909 book, The Dollar Hen (reprinted by me under my Norton Creek Press label):
Soil is important in poultry farming; in fact it is very important, and many failures can be traced to soil mistakes. Rocky and
uncultivated lands must not be chosen. To locate on any soil which will not utilize the droppings for the production of green food, is to introduce a loss sufficient to turn success into failure.
The ideal soil for poultry is a soil too sandy to produce ordinary farm crops successfully, and hence an inexpensive soil; but because land too sandy to be used for heavy farming is best for poultry, this does not mean that any cheap soil will do. A heavy wet clay soil worth $150 an acre for dairying is worth nothing for poultry. Pure sand is likewise worthless and nothing can be more pitiable than to see poultry confined in yards of wind swept sand, without a spear of anything green within half a mile.
The soils that are valuable for early truck are equally valuable for poultry. Sand with a little loam, or very fine sand, if a few green crops are turned under to provide humus, are ideal poultry soils. The Norfolk fine Sand and Norfolk Sandy Loam of the U.S. soil survey, are types of such soil.
These soils absorb the droppings readily and are never covered with standing water. The winter snows do not stay on them. Crops will keep greener on them in winter than on clay soils three hundred miles farther south.
The disadvantage of such soils is that they lose their fertility by leaching. The same principles that will cause the droppings to disappear from the top of the ground will likewise cause them to be washed down beyond the depths of plant roots. This loss must be guarded against by not going to the extreme in selecting a light soil and may be largely overcome by schemes of running the poultry right among growing crops or by quick rotations.
Land sloping to the southward is commonly advised for the purpose of getting the same advantages as are to be had in a sandy soil. In practice the slope of the land cannot be given great prominence, although, other things being equal, one should certainly not disregard this point. In heavy lands it is necessary to raise the floors and grade up around the houses. The quickly drained soil does away with this expense.
Timber on the land is a disadvantage. Poultry farming in the woods has not been made a success. It’s the same proposition of the droppings going to waste. I know a man who bought a timbered tract because it was cheap and who scraped up the droppings to sell by the barrel to his neighbor, who used them to fertilize his cabbage patch and in turn sold the poultryman cabbages to feed his hens, at 5 cents a head. Of course, this man failed, as does practically every man who attempts to scrape dropping boards and carry poultry manure around in baskets, instead of using it where it falls.
But the European Union Says 400 Hens per Acre is Okay!
It’s a sad fact of life: Regulations tend to be written by factory farmers who only want the appearance of being old-timey and small-scale. The European Union’s free-range regulations are designed to allow what is, for practical purposes, a high-density confinement operation, because only a few hens actually manage to go outdoors.
Fencing for Low-Density Free Range Chickens
With low stocking densities, you use more acreage for the same number of hens, and that takes a lot of fencing. See my Chicken Fencing FAQ for information about how to do this without breaking the bank.
Hens vs. Broilers
Broilers have a short lifetime before butchering, typically around 6-8 weeks, while hens are kept for a couple of years. On our farm, we only raise broilers for about eight months out of the year, while we have hens year-round. So what with one thing and another, a broiler places a lighter load on the land over its lifetime than a hen does. By my calculations, you can probably raise 500 broilers per acre per year in daily-move pasture pens without much trouble.
How High Should the Grass Be?
Tall grass interferes with the chickens’ freedom of movement, so keeping it to around two inches helps. You can do this through mowing or grazing. My impression is that the taller pasture species choke out the shorter ones if given half a chance, so you get a better diversity of pasture plants if you keep things short.
If the grass gets too tall, the hens will be restricted to pathways and tunnels through the grass, and the acreage is very underutilized.
Which Pasture Plants Should I Sow?
Your pasture will eventually reach an equilibrium of wild plants if you keep it mowed and don’t let the chickens destroy it. When planting a bare pasture, a “pasture mix” of grass/clover seeds from your local farm store should be as appropriate as anything. In climates with the right combination of temperature and rainfall, clovers will provide more nutrition than grasses.
In my climate (Western Oregon), grasses grow year-round but clovers don’t, so a clover monoculture isn’t in the cards. In other climates, it may pay to plow and replant your chicken pastures to a specific mix or monoculture from time to time.
G. F. Heuser says this (among much else about green feeds) in his indispensible book, Feeding Poultry (reprinted by me under my Norton Creek Press label):
Grass Range or pasture is the natural method of providing green food, and where it is supplied abundantly, is probably the best method. Clover and alfalfa ranges are preferred, primarily because the green stuff is available over a longer period of the year. They do not grow up and become tough and unavailable, as grass does. Frequent mowing of grass, however, will help to keep it tender.
For poultry pastures, plants capable of forming a dense, hard-wearing, and lawn-like turf are desirable. Wild white clover and ladino clover are suitable legumes. Grasses suitable for poultry turf are perennial rye grass, meadow grasses, and fescues, creeping bent, and crested dog’s-tail. However, poultry does not like the plants after they have become aged and woody and will then only eat them as a last resort. Turkeys prefer ladino clover, but other grasses can be satisfactorily used for grazing.
On the other hand, range provides few calories and unreliable amounts of protein.
In the old days, chickens survived without being fed much, often fending for themselves and not being fed in any systematic way at all. This relied on several conditions that are rarely met these days:
Cows and horses on the farm wasted a lot of grain, and household garbage was thrown out the back door, allowing a small farm flock to be kept without any feed cost.
Modern nutrition hadn’t been invented yet, so even the best-kept flocks weren’t all that productive, allowing badly kept flocks to be competitive.
People didn’t mind much if their flocks were half-starved and had high mortality, provided the hens laid some eggs in the spring, when forage is plentiful.
If there are only a few chickens on the farm, the hens can hatch enough eggs to perpetuate the flock.
These factors made it possible for any farm to produce a few eggs for free, but only for small flocks. Without cows and horses on the farm, even the smallest flock needed store-bought feed much of the year.
What Should I Feed My Free-Range Chickens?
Pretend that your range doesn’t exist—because, in some seasons, it won’t—and always provide a nutritionally balanced chicken feed. As much as they want to eat. That way, your chickens will never be malnourished. Provide chick feed for chicks, layer feed for hens, broiler feed for meat birds, and so on.
You can’t rely on range to provide reliable levels of nutrients year-round, because you haven’t analyzed it and have no actual idea of what your chickens are getting. Besides, the nutritional value of range changes every day, with the progression of the seasons and as your chickens denude some sources while others recover.
Chickens will still forage quite a bit even with 24/7 access to a balanced chicken feed. This is even more true if you provide their feed and water outdoors. They’ll eat the nutritional, palatable, yummy forage, avoid the questionable or poisonous plants, and remain in good condition even if the range is bare or covered with snow.
Poultry researchers have tested this in every conceivable way over the last hundred years, and the result is always the same: flocks are healthier, more productive, and more profitable if they’re fed a balanced diet. This is true with good range, bad range, and no range.
Saving money on chicken feed is best accomplished by offering low-cost feeds, especially whole grains, in addition to a balanced ration.
Which feed brands are best? National brands like Purina are reliable. Regional brands can be good, too. Just avoid brands with the word “Country” in the name, because that’s a code word for a low-quality feed aimed at cheapskates.
Local mills vary all over the map. Some are excellent, some are terrible.
People who turn their noses up at Purina and formulate their own feed often fail, because poultry nutrition is harder than it looks. It was easier in the old days, when high-quality protein supplements like meat-and-bone meal were affordable, but those days are long gone. Constructing something equivalent from largely vegetable sources is complicated.
If you want to formulate your own feed, expect to invest some time learning about poultry nutrition. This has two major facets:
Learning how to tell good-quality ingredients from bad ones, since every ingredient is available in high-quality and low-quality forms.
Learning how to formulate chicken rations.
I’ve republished G. F. Heuser’s Feeding Poultry, which goes over these issues in detail, and is a must-have for anyone serious about feeding non-prepackaged feeds.
Heuser’s book deals with creating balanced feeds without the use of vitamin/mineral premixes. One source of such premixes and reliable advice on how to use them, is Fertrell and their Nutri-Balancer product.
No, free range will not save you money. Free range will cost you money. Your chickens are exposed to the elements, and that will lower growth rates and egg production compared to a controlled-environment confinement housing. Your chickens will get some calories from foraging, but the additional exercise means they expend more calories, too. And because they get rained on, they’ll expend more calories keeping warm than chickens who always have a roof over their heads.
If you want to save money, read this article. These methods can cut feed costs quite a bit, and can be used in combination with free range.
Free range is about quality: product quality and quality of life. If my only options were to raise chickens in confinement, I wouldn’t raise chickens at all. With chickens out on grass range, I like raising chickens.
Similarly, my customers would not be very interested in buying eggs from a confinement flock, nor would they taste better than supermarket eggs. So by having free-range chickens, I have a market for my eggs, and one that pays well: two to three times more per dozen than conventional supermarket eggs.
So I’m recovering from that nasty cold that’s going around. It hit me pretty hard, so I’m taking prescription medications, and over-the-counter remedies, and herbs, and rest, and plenty of fluids. And that’s just fine: I’m getting better.
But a friend of mine, who had the exact same thing, was spending the weekend with some very nice people who told her that her prescription meds were nasty, and the Gatorade she was drinking because it was the only think she could keep down was nasty. It took her a while to shake off their influence and go back to doing things that actually worked. I’m not saying that she’d have avoided that trip the the ER if she hadn’t listened to them, but she might have.
So I have a few suggestions for all you readers out there…
What to Do When a Friend is Really Sick
Get them to a doctor. Just do it. Do it now. Expect that both you and your friend are in denial. Push right past it.
Learn the difference between prevention and cure. Prevention is important. Exercise is good for your heart. But only an idiot would get up and run around the block during a heart attack!
Learn the difference between emergency care and palliative care. Palliative care is there to speed up a normal recovery that’s already under way, or to make the recovery more comfortable. Deterioration below what you’d get with an ordinary cold calls for a doctor. It’s fine to play doctor for your own palliative care and for prevention: we all do it. Just don’t play ER.
ABC’s. Airway, breathing, circulation. That’s the order in which an EMT checks to see what needs to be done to keep you alive. To a layman, this boils down to “are they breathing okay?” Note that “breathing” is on this list and “healthy eating” isn’t.
If someone is deteriorating and has trouble breathing, it’s an emergency. Don’t fart around. Call an ambulance or go straight to the ER. Immediate Care centers aren’t good enough — they’re for ditsy stuff like colds and sprained wrists. Grandma’s home remedies and denial aren’t even in the running.
Don’t encourage people who are obviously sick to throw their meds away. The world has enough maniacs already. If you think they’re sick because of the meds, you can ask them to call their doctor to compare symptoms and side effects. But if you just don’t like meds, knock off the deathbed conversion thing.
If they’re getting doctoring, what they need is nursing. There’s a whole industry devoted to second-guessing doctors, because there’s a huge pile of money in it. There isn’t any money in helping a friend out, doing their chores, being encouraging and companionable, and checking in on them frequently. But that’s what they’ll need most, once they’ve seen the doctor.
When to Use Alternative Methods
Alternative methods are usually milder and are often slower-acting than conventional methods, with effects that build over time. So taking an alternative remedy whose results have a slow onset, like Omega-3 fish oil, isn’t going to do much for a problem that’s only going to last a short time. Some work well in the short term — I especially like Valerian for back pain and insomnia — but most healthy alternatives are long-haul things.
The same goes for diet. If you’re not allergic, diabetic, or suffering from celiac disease, falling off the wagon for a day or a week or a month is no big deal. You just climb back on again when you can. So if your tummy can’t handle whole grains or raw milk, there’s nothing wrong with sustaining yourself on whatever works until the trouble passes, which for me is ginger ale and saltine crackers.
I live in the country, which is a good healthy lifestyle choice, and we raise a lot of our own food, which is another. And I routinely take many of the usual herbs. And when I get sick anyway, I go to my doctor.